Azadi Square and Azadi Tower, Tehran (image: matthew cassel)
Azadi Tower is one of my favorite architectural structures anywhere in the world. I’m still not sure if my attraction to it is for purely aesthetic reasons or because of the fascinating history behind it. It’s definitely a combination of the two.
Azadi Tower was built by the Shah of Iran in 1971 to commemorate 2,500 years of the Persian monarchy. Originally called the King Memorial Tower, it was built as part of a series of nation-wide lavish events celebrating the anniversary that were heavily criticized by the Shah’s opponents, namely Ayatollah Khomeini in exile at the time. Eight years later the monarchy would be no longer. Khomeini and others, from Leftists to Islamists to workers to academics, overthrew the Shah and henceforth Iran became the Islamic Republic of Iran and King Memorial Tower became Freedom (Azadi in Farsi) Tower.
I stood with an Iranian friend, a dedicated opposition activist, in the middle of the huge square marveling at the tower with the mountains outside Tehran off in the distance. We took a seat off to the side and spoke about Iran, politics, life, and a number of other issues inspired by the tranquil square surrounded by a bustling metropolis. She laughed pointing at the freshly painted base of the tower that had previously been marked with green graffiti by opposition protesters when they gathered at Azadi Square during the large protests last June. It was an important time for her and many others in Tehran when their opposition movement seemed to have reached a critical mass.
After a while of talking under the sun we got up and I asked my friend if there was a place where we could get a drink. We brushed the grass and dirt off of our pants and looked around, nothing. I can’t remember if I said it out loud or not, but I certainly wished in my head that there was a NYC-style hot dog vendor or the Iranian equivalent at the square so we could get some quick and cheap refreshments. In any case, we got in a taxi and headed back into the city.
Months after the opposition, Azadi Square would again host large numbers of placard bearing Iranian demonstrators. On February 11, 2010, like on most February 11s since 1979, hundreds of thousands if not millions of Iranians came out to commemorate the 31st anniversary of the Iranian revolution. The below is a link to my critique of the Western media’s coverage of the anniversary and the ongoing internal conflict in Iran for the Guardian’s Comment is Free.
Not all Iranians hate their regime
by Matthew Cassel
http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2010/feb/12/iran-revolution-31st-anniversary
Describing the events in Iran yesterday, CNN correspondent Ivan Watson made a point of mentioning that free food and drink were handed out in Azadi Square to those celebrating the 31st anniversary of the revolution – as if the treats were part of a cunning ploy by the Ahmadinejad government.
Although some of my friends in Tehran who walked for miles to attend the hours of festivities at Azadi Square told me regretfully that they were not offered free food or drink, I don’t doubt that refreshments were indeed distributed at the rally.
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